A Travellerspoint blog

Off to see the Northern Lights II

Yukon Quest, Northern Lights, Super Bowl

sunny 0 °F

Saturday-Sunday:
After another poor night sleep, I got up at 6:30am and headed upstairs. Hot chocolate, toast, wait for someone else to hit the kitchen. Scott, Nancy & Debbie were upstairs at 7am and ready for BF. They were going over for the Yukon Quest, premier dog sled race in Fairbanks. Scott & Nancy would help with the start of the race, then drive to Circle AK to check in the teams as they arrived. The Yukon Quest is 1,000 miles (1,600km) long and takes 7-8 days to complete. I would not see Scott & Nancy again. They would not be back in FAI until Wed. afternoon and I had to be at the airport by 10am for my flight home. Debbie would be taking care of the hostel while Scott & Nancy were gone. They drove away at 8am. Andre & Fabio came up at 9am and called for a taxi. We exchanged e-mail address, said goodbye and they started the long trek back to Mexico. I had my oatmeal, banana, toast, hot choc. then got ready to walk over for the race.

I packed my day pack with camera, granola bars, water, map and started walking. Cho has FAI maps in the living room and I had asked Scott the easiest way to walk downtown. Pretty easy really. The hostel in on 9th Ave. Walk to 1st Ave, turn right, walk to downtown. It was cold, about 10 (-14c) but walking helped warm me up a bit. Once I crossed Airport Rd, I just followed the crowd. Within 10 minutes I was at the starting area for the Yukon Quest. Got out my camera and got some shots of the trucks, kennels and the mushers getting their dogs ready. The PA announces when the race starts and most of us try to get a spot to watch/photo the teams as they leave the starting line.
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The teams follow the frozen Chena River for several miles before they go overland. I walked away from the crowds to get better photos, got an overhead shot and then walked to the Visitors Center to warm up. Into the VC, bathroom, warm up. There is a bus stop right outside and decided to take the bus back to the hostel. I found out from Cho that all seniors ride for free. Nice perk and makes it easy to get around FAI, including the airport. I took the red line to the Noel Wien Library, got out and looked for a book to buy. I brought a Jack Reacher novel with me but finished it. I thought there would be plenty of paperbacks at the hostel but none I wanted to read. I found one worth buying and walked back to the hostel. It is only 1 block from the library. 9th Ave Hostel really is a good location. Right on the red line for the bus, can walk to downtown, restaurants, bars, library.
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The hostel was empty when I got there. Cho gives you a code to get in the back entrance, the mud room where you take off your boots. I showered, got into comfortable clothes, e-mailed, read and waited for Debbie or Till to come back. Till arrived and started packing. He leaves at 8pm for the airport and that leaves Debbie and I in the hostel. I had my scrambled eggs, toast at 6pm and decided to go out for the NLs again. The aurora website said it would be a good night so I booked the van again. At 9:30pm the van arrived, I was first on again. First on, last off. The driver made the same rounds as Friday, picking up fellow NLs viewers from various FAI hotels. We got to Chandalar Ranch at around 11pm and the NLs were on display. Same routine, downstairs, stand in the snow, got a few photos and then I decided to go up to the balcony. I did not have the use of a tripod tonight. An earlier photographer rented it before I got there. But, I got some good shots by using the railing and holding the camera as steady as I could. It was zero (-17c) at the ranch that night so we went in to warm up, back out for more photos many times. The NLs really fired off tonight and all of us were glad we came to the ranch Sat. night.
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The real treat for several of my group were the Chinese girls. It was Chinese New Year that weekend and Chandalar Ranch was packed with Chinese. They have rooms, food, tours and some guests basically spend their holiday at the ranch. When the NLs were really active, pulsating regularly, several of the girls laid down in the snow and started screaming in Chinese. Well, young girls get excited and they let loose! It was fun for the older crowd with me on the balcony. None of us are going to lay in the snow and none of the men are going to scream about seeing the NLs. No matter how spectacular they were! This is why I came to AK in Feb. The NLs really were special tonight and I got to see & photograph them. Everyone at Chandalar Ranch knew they saw something special tonight. Viewing the NLs really are a crap shoot. Some nights are cloudy, some nights they just don't fire off. It all depends on the sun. When there is a high amount of solar flares, you get active NLs. I was told if you are in FAI for 7 days, you have a 70% chance of seeing them. I got home at 3am and went to bed. I will have the room to myself until I leave. That was really a lucky break. When it is busy, there will be four guys in this room.
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Sunday was Super Bowl Sunday and the buses don't run. Not much I wanted to accomplish today. I had my oatmeal, chat with Debbie, decided to walk both for fitness and to see if there was a bar where I wanted to watch the Super Bowl. It was about an hour before kickoff and the streets of FAI were basically deserted. Took a few photos, went into a bar, but their menu was basically meat. Since I am a veggie, decided it was not for me. Walked home and watched the Super Bowl with Debbie. We both wanted Denver to win, so it was an enjoyable experience. We had the leftover stir fry, computer, read, chat, did my exercises, shower, went to bed at 10pm.

Posted by vegasmike6 16:27 Archived in USA Comments (0)

Off to see the Northern Lights III

Museum of the North, Arctic Circle Tour

sunny 0 °F

Monday-Tueday
I was up early as usual. Waited for Debbie to get up, had my BF and decided to visit the UAF Museum of the North. We chatted and she said it was worth visiting. I got the red line bus in front of the library, out at Fred Meyer. Transferred to the Blue line bus, it stops at UAF. Then you get on a free UAF shuttle that takes you right to the Museum. Paid $17, entrance plus movies. They run 3 movies on Alaska, I saw all 3. In between the movies, I would stroll the exhibits. Plenty of photo ops, plenty of walking. After seeing everything I wanted, I hit the Gift Shop. I bought a NLs calendar, well worth the $14. Every photo better than most of us could ever take. Of course they are pros, live in AK and can go out every night. Took the shuttle to bus stop, blue line to Fred Meyer. I saw a Subway across the street from the Safeway store. I bought a foot long veggie delite, bought some bananas, bus to hostel. Had my Subway, computer, read, hung out until Debbie came back. She was visiting with her daughter and had a good day as well. Did my exercises, shower, TV, read, bed at 10pm.
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Tuesday was going to be my last day in FAI and I had signed up for the Arctic Circle (AC) tour. $220. A bit more than I wanted to pay, but I had e-mailed Jean about it and she told me to go. How often would I be close to the AC? True, so I put it on my credit card and got over it. I did go for a walk after BF, back, then my exercises. Shower, packed my bag, got ready for the tour. I was picked up first, then Matthew picked up the other people. A family from China, college age daughter spoke very good English. A couple from Minnesota, Matt & Linda were at the Wal-Mart waiting. They were staying outside of FAI and had driven their rental to Wal-Mart. Off we go to the AC. First stop is a well known petrol station/restaurant a few hours outside FAI. I have seen it on Ice Road Truckers. Bathroom, walk around, onward. We are paralleling the Trans-Alaska Pipeline or TAPS. All vans stop at the main pull out. Plenty of parking, pipeline close to the road. We all got our photos, learned about the pipeline.
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Next stop was Wickersham Creek Trail. Matthew gives us enough time for bathroom break, short hike if we so choose. We turned onto the Dalton Highway and got out at the sign. Matthew took the group photo with my Nikon and then it quit working, Cold battery was the culprit. I switched to my Canon G11 and kept it warm as I could for the rest of the tour.
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We crossed the Yukon River and stopped at the rest area. Vehicles are not allowed to stop on the bridge. Cameras are monitored 24/7 for bad behavior we were told. Bathroom break and several walked down to the river. It was cold, dark and I stayed in the van. Linda took a flash photo and it was not bad. Should of gone down to the river. I asked her to send me the photo but she never did. We stopped when the Chinese father saw snow covered trees and wanted a photo of them We all pile out it really hits you how cold it is out here. Back in the van and we drive until we hit the AC sign. Other vans are there first and we wait in the warm van until they get their shots. Finally it is our turn and I have Linda take several of me at the sign. Then Matthew takes a group shot and we scurry back into the warm van. Matthew tells us his thermometer says it is -17 (-27c) at the sign. It is 10pm and we will stay until midnight to see if the NLs come out. Hot chocolate is served and I eat my last half of my Subway sandwich.

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We have a tripod to share and around 11:00pm the NLs do fire off. We take turns sharing the tripod and I get a few good ones. I had the Chinese girl stand there for a more interesting shot. Just as it was time to leave for the long drive back, we got very lucky. I had really only seen green NLs so far, but we got some other colors at midnight. Got probably my best shot and Matthew told us we had to leave if we were to get back by 4am.
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Not much talking on the way back. Most of us tried to sleep or at least rest. Matthew dropped off Linda & Matt, then the Chinese family and I was last. We all talked about giving Matthew a tip and decided $10/person was fair. He really knows Alaska, the Dalton, pipeline and was a good driver. You want a steady hand on these snowy, icy roads. They do carry emergency SAT phones, flares, food, water if the van breaks down in the middle of nowhere. I was last off and was in bed about 4:30am. Going to be a short night's sleep as I wanted to get up at 7am, to shower, eat, pack and get on the 8am bus to the airport. Red line to Fred Meyer, change to yellow line to the airport.

In order to get a better price, they had me fly to Anchorage, 3 hours, then Seattle. An hour and then on to Vegas. Got into McCarran around midnight. Long day and was ready to shower, go to bed. My Alaska NLs adventure was over. I am glad I went, got to see the NLs and visit the AC. Doubt I will go up to FAI again. Once was enough I think. There are other places I want to see first before I would do that again.

Posted by vegasmike6 23:02 Archived in USA Comments (0)

Las Vegas Neon Museum

Touring the Neon Boneyard

sunny 65 °F

One of the Senior centers where I deal Hold 'Em poker offered a tour of the Las Vegas Neon Museum aka Neon Boneyard (NB) last month. Carl and I decided to go and paid our $10. Seniors normally pay $12, $15 everyone else for the day tour. The day of our tour we all met at the Las Vegas Senior Center, close to both Fremont Street and the NB. We walked over as a group and waited for our tour time.

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Our guide Mitch introduced himself and he found out where we were from. Four locals, guys from LA, a couple from Chicago, some from Florida. The tour follows a set path going counter clockwise as you enter the boneyard. Hotels, motels, bars, restaurants have donated their signs over the years and Young Electric Sign Com. (YESCO) stored them at their own facility. The City of Las Vegas decided that they wanted to display some of the more famous signs and worked out a deal with YESCO. This land was made available for the Neon Boneyard and the project began. When the La Concha Hotel was torn down to make way for another project, the NB wanted their distinctive lobby for their entrance and gift shop It was cut into seven pieces and trucked to this location. Then it had to be re-assembled and became the centerpiece of the NB. The sign out front was made from letters from Golden Nugget, Caesars Palace, Binion's Horseshoe, Desert Inn, star is from the Stardust.

Mitch told us the rules, stay on the path, don't cross the rock barriers (one lady did and got chastised), no tripods, no video. OK, I can live with that. The tour starts out with older signs, motels, restaurants. He gave everyone enough time for photos and explained the history of many of the signs. The Golden Nugget sign has 1905 on it and it certainly did not exist in 1905. It was built in 1946, greatly re-modeled in 1973 when Steve Wynn bought it and the first hotel tower opened in 1997. The GN then became the classiest hotel downtown. He asks us why 1905 is on the sign and I provided the answer. Las Vegas had a land auction in 1905 and we officially became a town. Las Vegas means 'the meadows' in old Spanish. This is why people have been in the LV Valley for thousands of years. There was a natural flowing spring where The Springs Preserve is now located. We had fresh water and life depends on water when you are in a desert. We were a water stop for the trains running between Salt Lake City and Los Angeles. I am sure Mitch got tired of me answering his questions for the group, but hey, I was born in Vegas and knew the answers. Hard to resist showing off for the tour group! Several of the others on the tour starting asking me questions about growing up in LV and how the city has changed since I stared school in the 50s.

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On we go until we head for the exit. The newer, better known signs like the Stardust and the Riviera are at the end of the tour. As you can see in the pictures, we had a decent day. It was a bit windy, cool, bit overcast but overall a nice day for Feb.

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I enjoyed the tour of the NB and would recommend it to visitors that have an hour to kill when they are downtown.

Posted by vegasmike6 22:18 Archived in USA Tagged wildflowers Comments (0)

Death Valley Wildflowers

Off the see the 'Super Bloom'.

sunny 85 °F

I had been following the news of the 'Super Bloom' of wildflowers online and in the Review Journal. I called the Death Valley National Park (DVNP) Ranger station and he confirmed that the wildflowers were at peak. He said the best bloom right now were those south Of Badwater Basin. I talked to my neighbor Jean and asked her if she wanted to drive over to see the wildflowers. Yes! was her answer. Her daughter Jackie was visiting and wanted to go as well. We picked Tuesday March 1st as our day to visit DVNP. I figured Tuesday would be less busy than the weekend.

I wanted to leave at 7am, but the ladies thought 8am was more realistic. I fired up my Odyssey and picked them up. Since they live across the street, it was not a difficult task! We drove state route 160 to Pahrump, and then state route 190 straight to the Furnace Creek Visitors Center. Bathroom break, chat with the Ranger on duty, got a wildflower map and we headed for Badwater Basin on 178. We started seeing yellow flowers as we approached Badwater, but knew the best fields of wildflowers would be south of Badwater Basin. At mile marker 20, we saw lots of cars pulled off the road and people walking among the flowers. I found a spot to pull over and we all got out. I grabbed my Canon G11 and walked out into the vast field of yellow flowers. Great vistas of flowers in every direction. Several couples ask me to take their photo and of course agreed. One lady had a professional video camera on a tripod. She told several of us that she was in DVNP yesterday and thought the best expanse of flowers were between mile post 25 & 26. After getting all the shots I wanted, I told Jean & Jackie that we would drive down to mile post 25.

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That turned out to be great advice. Plenty of places to safely pull off the road. I parked and walked out among the flowers. This was the best spot for flowers and I started getting shot after shot. I was happy to stay a bit longer, but both ladies said it was too hot and wanted some a/c. I fired up the van and got the a/c going. It was mid 80s (30c) on March 1st, very pleasant day. Warm enough for shorts, but not really hot. We drove back to Badwater Basin and got out for a few photos of the sign. Badwater is 282 feet (85.5m) below sea level. Also the hottest place in the US with a record high of 134 (56.6c). Badwater came by its name honestly. The water that seeps out of the surrounding mountains is so salty to be undrinkable for man or beast. DVNP in the summer months is almost unbearable. It routinely goes over 120 (48c). Then you really need the a/c going and plenty of water! A few shots of Jean & Jackie on the salt flats extending out from Badwater Basin and we called it a day.

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I drove back to Pahrump and we picked Denny's for our lunch stop. After lunch I filled up the gas tank and back to Las Vegas. We got home at 4:30 and all agreed it had been a successful day. We got to see the Super Bloom and I had the photos to prove it!

Posted by vegasmike6 19:43 Archived in USA Tagged flowers Comments (0)

Winter in Yellowstone National Park, Day 1

Old Faithful Tour, bison, elk, coyote, geysers.

semi-overcast 20 °F

My friend Chris came back from Thailand Dec. 10th. He commutes, 8 months in Thailand, 4 in Las Vegas. We both saw a National Geographic channel show on winter in Yellowstone National Park (YNP) last winter. He had some health problems last winter and we never could go. I e-mailed him that I would like to go this winter and he agreed. YNP opens for the winter on Dec. 15th, so I picked Dec. 16th-18th. I got online and booked a room at the Stage Coach Inn in West Yellowstone (WY). I used booking.com and I was quoted $59/night for 2 queen beds, BF included. I used booking.com because they allow you to cancel with no penalty up to 4 days before your arrival. If you book with the hotel, you have to cancel within 20 days. I called the Buffalo Bus Company (BBC) and the Stage Coach Inn on Dec. 12th. I had been checking the weather on the Internet, not much snow in WY. Both guys I talked to said to cancel, the snowmobiles were not going out, not enough snow. I cancelled and let Chris pick a date in January. He picked Jan. 12-14th. I called Charlie at BBC and he recommended the Branding Iron Inn (BII). Newer rooms, better BF. I was quoted $69/night for those dates. Stage Coach was quoting $69 as well. I again used booking.com and booked 3 nights at the BII. As the date approached, I called both BBC and BII. Yes, they now had plenty of snow. Plan A was to leave early am on the 12th and drive straight to WY. Chris came over at 6:15am, we loaded up my van and headed out. I drove to Beaver UT, bathroom break and Chris took over. On to Ogden UT, we stopped for petrol. Good news, UT was cheaper than Vegas. We paid $1.92/gallon. I took over and we hit WY at around 6pm MT time. You lose 1 hour time change. Chris went to Oregon and wanted to see the game against Ohio State for the NCAA National Championship. I checked in using my credit card and was assigned room 405. It was upstairs and Chris asked if they had a downstairs room. Since they were only 30% full, they did. The front desk clerk then assigned us room 305. I drove close to 305 and we unloaded the van. We never stopped for food during the 11 hour drive to WY. I had fruit and granola bars, water. Chris brought his snacks for the 11 hr drive. We both can do w/o a real meal on travel day. Chris wanted pizza while watching the game and walked over to a pizza place. They delivered it to the room and we ate pizza and watched Ohio State dominate Oregon. Chris gave up in the 3rd quarter and played on his laptop. I showered, read my book and at 11pm we called it a night.

Both of us are poor sleepers in our own beds, did not get better in a hotel bed. I forgot to bring my own pillows. With the van, I had plenty of room. My bad. Won't make that mistake again. I was up at 6am and headed over to the BF room. It was cold, zero (-15c), but I had my old ski clothes, so I was prepared. Omelets with cheese are in a chafing dish and I picked that plus peaches, toast & hot chocolate. I chat with a snowmobile couple until Chris arrives. I like to shower right before bed, he prefers a morning shower. Chris picks what he wants and by 7:30 we head for the room to get ready. We clean-up, get our cold weather gear on, backpacks with cameras plus snacks and head for the lobby. Chris booked the tour with BBC when we checked in, $120 each with the taxes. There are plenty of seats for the Old Faithful tour which runs everyday. I had booked the Canyon tour for Wed. on the phone when I booked the room. They only go Mon. Wed. Friday to the Canyon, $130 each with the taxes. BBC warned me that the Canyon tour can sell out, so that is why I pre-booked. I get on the computer to check e-mails and wait for the BBC tour guide. Brad shows up around 8:20am. He has a large school bus, seating about 30. We sit as close to the door as possible and he proceeds to the other hotels picking up guests. We head out for YNP around 8:45am. We both had the Senior Pass for our National Parks, but others had to pay $10 entrance fee. You pay BBC when you pay for the tour. Into the park, we are now in Wyoming. Most of YNP is in Wyoming, just a bit in MT & Idaho. First stop is along the Madison River. It never freezes because of all the hot water dumped into it daily by the thermal features in YNP. We get a few frost cover tree shots and then see another BBC bus stopped. A sure sign of something to photograph. Some bison are grazing across the Madison River. Everyone piles off and we try to get our shots. Our first bison encounter. It won't be the last.

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After everyone has their photos, we had for Madison Junction. All tour and snowmobiles stop at Madison for bathroom, snacks, to warm up. I checked the temperature, at 10am it was 5f (10c). Madison is around a 15 minute rest stop. Always a good idea to hit the bathroom, it maybe awhile before your next chance. I chat with some snowmobile riders from Atlanta Georgia in the warming shed. It cost them $300/day for: snowmobile, warm clothes, guide. You must have a guide when you enter YNP in the winter, snowmobile or snow coach. No private driving in the winter. Unless you win a lottery system that YNP has set up for those with their own snowmobile. If you win, you must attend a course on safe riding in YNP. None of the people we chatted with were on their own.
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After the rest stop, we head towards Old Faithful (OF). The next stop is Lower Geyser Basin (LGB). We get out and Brad leads up to the geothermal features of LGB. It is still cold and we walk briskly to keep warm. Brad tells us about the different hot pools, mud pots, steamers, etc. We are there about 45 minutes and are ready for the heated snow coach.

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We are encouraged to shout out when spotting anything worth stopping for. Someone spots some ducks, but not worth stopping for. My shot is through the window. There are elk and bison grazing around the Midway Geyser basin (MGB), but are so far away it makes for a difficult photo. A few bison finally wander close enough for a decent shot. This is the one photo we all want: a bison with a geyser going off. After some time at MGB, we are off for (OF).

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I find out that Brad has been keeping track of the time and is trying to hit OF when it is scheduled to erupt. The Park Rangers time each eruptions and calculate when the next eruption will occur. When we get out of the snow coach, OF is starting to erupt. Our tour group fast walks the trail behind the Visitor Center. I start snapping away as I get closer to OF. After OF has stopped erupting, we chat with the ranger about the next eruption. Brad allows 2 hours at OF and the ranger expects the next eruption to occur in about 90 minutes. Chris starts walking the trail and I choose bathroom and movie inside the VC. I chat with the ranger and suggests walking to Castle Geyser, crossing the Firehole River and walking back behind OF for best view. I meet Chris on the trail and we walk by Beehive Geyser. It is sporadic in its eruptions and we don't wait hoping it will erupt. I find some benches to view the next OF eruptions. While sitting there, Beehive goes off. I get some shots of Beehive and while it is going, OF goes off as scheduled. I get many shots and then head for the snow coach. Brad takes a head count and we head back for home.
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We spot a coyote prowling around the Firehole River in the Midway Geyser basin area. We all pile out and get shots of him walking towards a bridge. All the animals at YNP have figured out that we are no threat to them. We take photos and stay away from them and they know it. He ignores us and causally crosses a bridge with hikers not 50ft (15m) away. Brad gets us all back on the bus head for Madison. Short bathroom break and we head back to WY. We spot bison walking across the road and stop for them. Along the Firehole River someone spots a red fox looking for mice under the snow. Brad tells us this is a rare sighting. The red fox usually hunts at night. After the red fox sighting we head back for home. Someone shouts out that there is a bull elk by the river and we pull over. We all pile out and the elk poses long enough for most of us to get a decent photo before he wanders back into the trees.
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That was our last stop, we leave the park and start dropping off passengers. When we hit the BII, we get out and I give Brad a $20 tip for both of us. The handout on Yellowstone tours suggests a 10-15% tip for your guide. We both felt Brad did a very good job spotting animals, explaining the geothermal features and making YNP understandable. We hit the room, get rid of our backpacks, bathroom and head for the lobby. We ask the front desk clerk for affordable dinner suggestions. She suggests the Slippery Otter Pub across Firehole Ave. We walk over and check out the menu. I see soup & salad for $10, good enough for me. Chris wants french dipped sandwich & fries. We agreed it was a decent meal at a decent price. Afterward, we walk across Canyon St. to check prices at the Subway shop. Basically double Vegas prices. We are quickly finding out there are few bargains to be had in WY, esp. in the winter. Many places are closed until summer. Just not enough customers to stay open. Those that do stay open need to gouge every dollar out of the few customers that show up. Well, that is a bit harsh, but it does feel that way sometimes.

Back to our room, I spot the hot tub sign. Sounds good and I decide to soak before showering. I had the room to myself and had 2 hot tubs to pick from. One was set at 104f (40c) and the other at 100f (38c). I pick the hotter one and last about 15 minutes. I then see that I will have to shower in my room. There is no shower in the hot tub room. I get dressed, back to the room, shower, clean up and watch some TV. Chris fires up his laptop and edits today's photos. At 10pm we were both ready for bed. Day one of our Yellowstone adventure is over.

Posted by vegasmike6 23:50 Archived in USA Comments (1)

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